The Rota da Caniça (PR10 Seia) was one of the most surprising hiking trails we’ve encountered recently. We had never heard of this trail before, but the Serra da Estrela Interpretation Center in Seia recommended it as an excellent winter option, as it is at a lower altitude and, therefore, snow-free.
After completing the trail, we can confidently say that it is one of the best trails in Portugal and deserves to be visited by anyone who enjoys hiking at any time of year, as long as it’s not raining.
With a length of about 7 km and an accumulated elevation gain of nearly 500 meters, concentrated mainly in the middle of the route, the Rota da Caniça – PR10 Seia trail is moderately difficult. It is a circular trail with a large parking area at the start/end, so you won’t have to worry about logistics.
The “somewhat difficult” difficulty level comes from a few steep climbs, especially the ascent after the Cornos do Diabo. It’s pretty tough and steep, as we’ll see below.
The trail is well-marked, but we always recommend downloading the trail to your GPS, just in case you get lost or can’t find a sign.
Caniça Route – General Information
- Name: Rota da Caniça
- Start: Lapa dos Dinheiros church
- End: Lapa dos Dinheiros Church
- Distance: 7 km
- Time needed—About 3 hours. It could be a little less, but we are not fast walkers.
- Difficulty – Moderate
- High/min altitude: 622/922 meters
- Altitude gain: Almost 500 meters
- Type: Circular
- Signage (1-5) – 5, very good
- Highlights: Lapa dos Dinheiros, Cornos do Diabo, Buraco do Sumo, Caniça Falls.
- You can download the flyer here.
Our experience on the Rota da Caniça, Seia
The Rota da Caniça (PR10 Seia) is a circular route that starts and ends near the Matriz Church in Lapa dos Dinheiros. There, you will find an informative panel and arrows indicating the route and the recommended direction. The trail can be taken in both directions, but we will follow the clockwise direction, as officially recommended.
The first part of the trail takes you through the village of Lapa dos Dinheiros. Still, we quickly reach a point where we must leave the main path and begin descending toward the Souto da Lapa, a forest of centuries-old chestnut trees home to various fauna and flora species.
After the river beach, we continue along the dirt road, but shortly after, we take a detour to see the Quedas da Caniça. The path to get close to the waterfalls is quite steep, so it requires some attention, but it’s worth it. Although not very well-known, the waterfalls are pretty impressive in the winter due to the high flow of the Ribeira da Caniça.
Unfortunately, we had to go back to continue the trail, and soon after, we had to face a long and very steep climb of almost 1 km. It doesn’t seem like much, but it still costs. The good news is that this part is all on a dirt road and, therefore, without any technical difficulties.
At the end of the climb, we reach a crossroads where we must turn right towards the Devil’s Horns (Cornos do Diabo). This is where our favorite part of the trail begins. The following 2 km are along a huge levada that carries much water in winter.
This path takes us to the source of the Levada, and so it is always slightly uphill, but it is barely noticeable. It is one of the most beautiful sections of the trail, with water running along the levada and the trail flanked by lush vegetation. We also have lovely views of the valley.
Just before the levada spring, we find a sign to turn left towards the Buraco do Sumo. However, before doing so, continue straight for another 50 to 100 meters, all the way to the end of the path. There, you will encounter some waterfalls and the Cornos do Diabo. If it has rained in the previous days, these waterfalls become even more impressive due to the increased flow.
The Cornos do Diabo are an intriguing rock formation atop a large rock on the opposite side of the stream. As the name suggests, they resemble horns. This fascinating area combines rock formations, the levada’s source, and waterfalls in one point of interest.
Returning to our trail, we reached the hike’s steepest and most technical climb. We advise you to be very careful as the path is uphill, with many loose stones, which can be slippery and dangerous. It’s only 100 or 200 meters, but it can be challenging and risky if you’re not used to this type of terrain.
The path continues uphill after this small technical section, but now it is much easier. We quickly arrived at Buraco do Sumo, a curious place where the Ribeira da Caniça runs underground due to the accumulation of enormous granite blocks that slid from the neighboring slopes and covered the bed of the Ribeira.
From Buraco do Suco, the trail continues to climb for a few hundred more meters, but more gently, until we reach the highest point of the entire route. From this area, we have beautiful views of the valley.
Eventually, we reach a new junction where we need to turn left and start the descent. From here, it’s swift, starting on a wide path before entering a dense forest, crossing another smaller levada, and soon we have Lapa dos Dinheiros in sight.
The final part of the descent is quite steep and can become tiring, but it doesn’t pose significant technical difficulty.
Best Time of Year to Hike the Trail
The Rota da Caniça can be hiked year-round, with each season offering its advantages. This trail is not very well known so that you won’t encounter large crowds, except perhaps at the riverside beach during the summer.
It’s essential to watch out for the heat in the summer, but the trail passes through many shaded areas where you can rest from the sun. Bring plenty of water, a hat, and sunscreen. If it’s hot, it might be worth bringing swimwear to dip in the beautiful riverside beach.
Winter is also an exciting time to hike the Rota da Caniça, as you’ll see the waterways with strong currents, especially the waterfalls, which are all in their splendor. Additionally, it’s an excellent alternative for hiking when the higher areas of Serra da Estrela are covered in snow.
If you’re hiking during the rainy season, pay special attention to some sections of the trail, as quite steep areas can become slippery and dangerous. Wear appropriate footwear and hike with caution.
Who Can Hike the Rota da Caniça?
With about 7 km and moderate difficulty, this trail requires some effort and is better suited for those with some hiking experience. You don’t need to be a mountain trail expert, but it’s important to have some practice, especially due to the descent to the Cascata da Caniça and the climb to the Buraco do Sumo.
If you’re used to mountain hikes, this trail is perfect. Additionally, it is well-marked, so navigation won’t be a significant concern. However, this trail may not be the best choice if you don’t usually hike, have balance issues, or lack flexibility. It is also not recommended for young children due to the steep sections and more technical areas.
What to take hiking?
Although the Rota da Caniça is not a very long trail, it’s always important to be well-prepared. Due to some steeper sections, we recommend wearing hiking shoes with non-slip soles – this will make a big difference.
As for food and drinks, if you’re hiking during the beach season, the beachside bar should be open. Otherwise, there aren’t many places to buy snacks or drinks along the way. The only options are in Lapa dos Dinheiros, and even there, they are limited.
So, we recommend bringing:
- Plenty of water (about 1L per person, more if it’s summer)
- Snacks
- Comfortable hiking shoes that won’t slip
- Comfortable clothing
- A rain jacket, in winter
- Swimwear, sunglasses, hat, and sunscreen in summer
- Camera and mobile phone, as there are plenty of photo opportunities. The mobile can also be used as a GPS
- A small backpack to carry everything
As always, please remember not to leave any litter behind. Take everything you bring with you.
How to Get to the Start of the Trail?
The starting point of the Rota da Caniça is hard to miss, as it begins right next to the main church of Lapa dos Dinheiros. There, you’ll find some parking spaces and an information panel with a map and general details about the trail.
To reach Lapa dos Dinheiros, it’s best to head to Seia first (and you can even take the opportunity to pick up anything you might need before the hike). Seia is about 280 km from Lisbon, which takes approximately 3 hours by car, and about 170 km from Porto, about a 2-hour drive.
From Seia, head towards Sabugueiro on the EN339 and turn left onto the M522 towards Lapa dos Dinheiros. The M522 road between Seia and Lapa dos Dinheiros is narrow and winding but paved and accessible for any car.
Where to Stay When Doing the Rota da Caniça Trail, Seia?
As you can see from the distances and travel times explained above, this trail can be completed on the same day. However, returning on the same day might be a bit tiring… In other words, it’s possible but perhaps not the best option.
So, suppose you’d prefer to take more time to explore the region. In that case, we recommend staying at least one night in the Serra da Estrela, preferably in Seia, where there are other points of interest such as Sabugueiro, the Electricity Museum, the Bread Museum, and the Serra da Estrela Interpretation Center.
The accommodations closest to the trail start are those in Lapa dos Dinheiros, but many options are nearby. Our suggestions are:
- Casas Da Lapa, Nature & Spa Hotel – A luxury hotel in Lapa dos Dinheiros. It features a garden, an on-site restaurant, indoor and outdoor pools, and many other amenities. It’s one of the best hotels in the Serra da Estrela. Book here.
- O Vicente – Located in Loriga, about 5 km from the trail. It’s an affordable hotel with excellent conditions. In addition to being a hotel, it is also one of the most well-known restaurants in the Serra da Estrela. Check availability here.
- Quinta da Cerdeira – If you prefer to stay in Seia, which is closer to various restaurants and museums, Quinta da Cerdeira is an excellent option with great value for money. View photos and prices here.
Happy hiking!
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