The Central Massif Route in Manteigas is one of the toughest and most breathtaking trails in the Serra da Estrela. It starts and ends at Covão d’Ametade, taking you through the highest and wildest parts of the range, between Cântaro Magro, Cântaro Gordo, and the Zêzere Glacial Valley.
We usually say it’s brutal—both for its difficulty and its beauty! If you enjoy mountain hiking and are used to demanding, technical trails, this is a hike you don’t want to miss.
Still, we can guarantee it’s our favorite trail in the Serra da Estrela: the physical effort is well worth it for the natural beauty and the deep immersion in the mountains’ wilderness.
If you want to explore more trails and get tips about the Serra da Estrela, check out our complete Serra da Estrela guide.
Practical information about the Central Massif Route
- Name: Central Massif Route – PR5 Manteigas
- Start: Covão d’Ametade
- End: Covão d’Ametade
- Distance: 6.2 mi (10 km)
- Estimated time: 6–8 hours
- Technical difficulty: Very difficult
- Physical difficulty: Very difficult
- Max/Min altitude: 6,335/4,667 ft (1,931/1,423 m)
- Elevation gain: around 1,970 ft (600 m)
- Type: Circular, marked in both directions
- Signage (1–5): 4. Some markings are worn and hard to see
- Highlights: Covão d’Ametade, Cântaro Gordo, Cântaro Magro, Covão Cimeiro, Lagoa do Peixão, Salgadeiras
- You can download the brochure here.
- Check the official GPS file here.
Central Massif Route – Manteigas
Our experience on the trail
This is our favorite trail in the Serra da Estrela, but also the toughest one we’ve done there. The 6.2 mi (10 km) circular route, with about 1,970 ft (600 m) of elevation gain, can be a bit deceptive.
Plan for at least 6 hours to complete the trail. We took more than 7, but we also stopped several times for photos and videos. On top of that, it started raining during the descent, so we had to be extra careful.
Starting at Covão d’Ametade and going clockwise, you first enter the covão and follow it to the end (about 980 ft / 300 m). Here, you’ll see a marker to the right, and the long, arduous climb begins.
The climb is about 0.9 mi (1.5 km), rising from 4,593 ft (1,400 m) to over 5,900 ft (1,800 m). Pace yourself and save energy, as there are sections where serious scrambling is required, and you need to be careful not to slip. This area offers views of the Glacial Valley and the Cântaros.
Once at the top, there are a few rolling kilometers where you can walk faster. However, even in this “flat” section, there are plenty of rocks and boulders, so you always need to stay alert. This is where we found the peat bogs and salt-loving plants.
The route changes at a large cairn with a sign pointing right. From here, a long descent of over 1.2 mi (2 km) begins. This section includes technical sections, such as passing between two rocks and very steep descents. It’s fun but requires full attention.
After Lagoa do Peixão, the descent eases into a flatter section along the Ribeira da Candeeira valley. This part goes quite fast, as it’s not only flat but also has far fewer rocks to climb over.
At the end of the valley, there’s another right turn sign. You’re about 1.5 mi (2.5 km) from Covão d’Ametade, with just one final climb and corresponding descent back to the covão. From here, you get beautiful views of the Glacial Valley again, and in about an hour, you’re back at the starting point.
Distance and type of route
The original trail is about 6.2 mi (10 km), which is what we did. However, there are several extra detours for those with more energy and time. For example, you can head to Torre and then return to the original circular route. With all detours, the total distance reaches 11.8 mi (19 km).
As mentioned, the trail is circular, starting and ending at Covão d’Ametade. It’s recommended to go clockwise, so the most challenging climb comes right at the beginning.
Altitude and elevation gain
This mountain trail reaches altitudes that, in Portugal, are only possible in the Serra da Estrela. The lowest point is at Covão d’Ametade, 4,667 ft (1,423 m), while the highest reaches 6,335 ft (1,931 m). If you take the detours, you’ll reach Portugal’s highest point, Torre, at 6,529 ft (1,991 m).
The elevation gain is “only” about 1,970 ft (600 m), but remember, most of this gain is concentrated in a small section, which means extremely steep inclines.
Technical and physical difficulty
We consider the Central Massif Route one of the most challenging trails we’ve done in Portugal, not because of the elevation gain or distance, but due to the steepness and elevation changes in the first part and the main descent.
Besides the physical challenge of climbing 1,312 ft (400 m) in less than 0.9 mi (1.5 km), the rocks and slopes demand constant scrambling and, at times, almost mountain-goat-like agility.
The descent is no easier than the climb, so be ready to go down slowly and carefully. There are many rocks, and it’s easy to twist an ankle—or worse.
Signage
The trail is well marked in both directions. Some markers are fading or obscured by vegetation, so renewal is needed to prevent future accidents.
A GPS is almost mandatory, as getting lost can make it very complicated to find your way back.
For more information about the region and other trails, check out our Serra da Estrela guide.
When to hike the trail
The best time to do this trail is summer, when there’s no snow, the humidity is low, and the chance of rain is smaller.
It’s essential to emphasize that you should not attempt this route when there’s snow. It’s hazardous, and the likelihood of getting lost increases significantly.
Besides snow, we recommend avoiding rainy days and checking the weather forecast carefully. Rain will make the trail much slipperier and more hazardous. Additionally, if temperatures drop, it can get very cold and windy.
That said, we did this trail at the start of autumn with a 0% chance of rain and… guess what? It rained for 2 hours when we were already more than halfway through! So be prepared and always bring a rain jacket.
Who is the Central Massif Route in Manteigas suitable for?
As we mentioned in the introduction, this is a trail for people with good physical endurance and some mountain hiking experience. It requires some technique (or at least experience) on climbs and descents.
People with mobility issues or limited flexibility will struggle on the more technical sections, so we do not recommend this trail for them. Due to steep slopes and hazards in some areas, we also suggest that you not take children on this trail.
If you want an easier hike, we recommend the Rota da Caniça(PR10) in Seia. Or, for a family-friendly hike, the Rota das Faias (Beech Route) in Manteigas is an excellent choice.
What to bring on this trail
This is a long, high-mountain trail. There are no shops, cafés, or restaurants, so you need to carry everything you’ll need for the day. We suggest bringing:
- Plenty of water (at least 0.5 gal / 2 L per person)
- Snacks and energy food, as you’ll spend much of the day on the trail
- Comfortable mountain shoes. Preferably long pants to protect against bushes
- Comfortable exercise clothing
- A rain jacket in winter
- A waterproof coat, even if the weather looks good
- Sunglasses, a hat, and sunscreen in summer
- Camera and phone, as there are many opportunities for great photos. A phone can also be used as a GPS.
- A small backpack to carry everything
And as always, please don’t leave trash. Take everything you brought back out.
How to get to the Central Massif Route – Manteigas
Officially, the trail starts at Torre, as shown in the official brochure. Still, everyone starts at Covão d’Ametade, because beginning at Torre means ending with a very tough climb and adding 1.2 mi (2 km) extra to reach the official trail start.
Getting to Covão d’Ametade is easy: take the N232 road from Manteigas toward Penhas da Saúde. When you reach the steepest part of the Glacial Valley, the covão is immediately on the right. There’s a small free parking area, so arriving early is recommended.
Where to stay when doing the Central Massif Route
The best place to stay for this trail is Penhas da Saúde, as it’s very close to Covão d’Ametade and offers plenty of accommodation options.
We recommend Hotel Luna Serra da Estrela, as it has excellent value for money and even an indoor pool to relax after the hike.
Alternatively, you can stay in Manteigas, which is also nearby and offers a wide variety of lodging and restaurants. See the map below for some recommendations.
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