Portugal is one of the biggest consumers of rice in Europe. We are even sometimes jokingly called the “Asians of Europe.” And it is easy to understand why: rice is on almost every Portuguese table, whether as a side dish or as the main course, often enriched with fish, seafood, or meat. It is one of those ingredients that rarely fails to show up in a Portuguese meal.
But we are not just big rice consumers. Portugal is also the fourth-largest rice producer in Europe, after Italy, Spain, and Greece. And among our rice varieties, one stands out in a very special way: carolino rice. A short-grain rice, full of starch, perfect for our beloved arroz malandro, a traditional Portuguese rice dish that, without fear of comparison, can easily stand up to many risottos and paellas.
In this article, we will explore the traditions, varieties, and almost emotional relationship the Portuguese have with this ingredient, which is so deeply rooted in our cuisine.
The main types of rice in Portugal
The main types of rice used in Portugal are carolino and agulha, each with its own very specific characteristics that directly influence the final result of each dish.
Carolino rice, a variety of the japonica species, is known for its medium grain and high starch content. It is especially suitable for brothy rice dishes, as it absorbs flavors well and helps create the creamy texture that is so typical of Portuguese cuisine. This is the rice used to make the famous arroz malandro, a traditional Portuguese rice dish.
Agulha rice, on the other hand, belongs to the indica species. It has a long grain, stays looser after cooking, and contains less starch. It is ideal for dry rice dishes or oven-baked rice dishes, such as arroz de pato, Portuguese duck rice.
When choosing rice, it is important to take these differences into account, as well as the type of dish you want to prepare. Besides these more common varieties, basmati, jasmine rice, and wild rice are also available, although they are not part of traditional Portuguese rice production.
In recent years, some brands have invested more in promoting national rice varieties, identifying the type of grain used more clearly. In the case of carolino rice, many packages are the result of blends within the same variety. However, with the development of Portuguese varieties such as Ceres, Diana, Maçarico, and Caravela, there is now a growing focus on the specificity and origin of the rice produced in Portugal.
The history of rice in Portugal
Rice was introduced to the Iberian Peninsula by the Arabs. The Portuguese word arroz itself comes from the Arabic ar-ruzz. Many of the rice dishes we have today were influenced by Arab culture, which was present in the Iberian Peninsula for almost 500 years.
Later, during the reign of King Dinis, rice cultivation began to gain greater importance. Over the centuries, rice became increasingly present in the Portuguese diet, arriving through trade routes with the East and Brazil.
In the 18th century, one of the most highly prized types of rice was Carolina rice, originally from the Carolina region in North America. It was a high-quality white rice, much sought after at the time. Its production eventually expanded to Brazil and, later, to Portugal as well. In Portugal, this type of rice gave rise to the name carolino rice.
With restrictions on imports from the colonies, rice production in the Mondego and Sado regions was further developed. This growth also brought challenges and public health problems, such as malaria, due to standing water and the spread of mosquitoes. Later, with the mechanization of agriculture in the 20th century, production became more efficient, allowing for greater scale. In 1952, there was a significant increase in production, reaching around 150,000 tons.
During the Estado Novo dictatorship, rice consumption became even more firmly established in the Portuguese diet. Price control policies and measures to protect national production were introduced, making rice more accessible to the population. At the same time, there was investment in improving the varieties grown in Portugal, through the crossing of foreign seeds with varieties already adapted to Portuguese soils.
From the 21st century onward, new varieties developed in Portugal began to appear, such as Diana, Maçarico, and Ceres. More recently, Caravela has stood out as a 100% Portuguese variety.
The main rice-producing regions in Portugal
Rice is a crop that requires a lot of water and does not tolerate cold very well, which explains why its production in Portugal is mainly concentrated along the banks and estuaries of the Mondego, Sorraia, Tagus, and Sado rivers.
There are five major rice-growing areas in the country. The three main ones account for most of the production, while the remaining areas are smaller and often linked to preserving tradition:
- Lower Mondego, a region with Protected Geographical Indication, or PGI, status.
- The Ribatejo wetlands, also with PGI status.
- Sado.
- Salreu, in Estarreja.
- The Arade basin, in the Algarve.
The largest production area is in Ribatejo, followed by the Sado and Lower Mondego regions. In Salreu and the Arade basin, production is much smaller and is mainly maintained by micro-producers who are working to recover and preserve the tradition of rice cultivation.
Some of the best-known Portuguese rice brands include:
- Bom Sucesso — sourced from Ribatejo.
- Cigala — often sourced from the Tagus and Mondego regions, although it is not exclusive to Portugal.
- Novarroz — sourced from the Tagus and Mondego regions.
- Caçarola — often sourced from the Tagus and Mondego regions.
In Portugal, carolino-type varieties are the most common. These are japonica grains, small and rich in starch, and are used to make brothy rice dishes. On a smaller scale, Portugal also produces agulha-type rice, made from indica grains, which are long and lower in starch, making them better suited to oven-baked rice dishes or loose, fluffy rice.
How to cook arroz malandro
Just as the Spanish have paella and the Italians have risotto, in Portugal we have arroz malandro: a brothy, flavorful rice dish that can be prepared with many different ingredients. Some of the best-known versions include seafood rice, arroz de cabidela, and tomato rice.
Making arroz malandro is not difficult, but there are a few important things to keep in mind. First, you should use carolino rice and avoid washing it before cooking. Washing removes the starch, and in this case, we want to preserve it.
As a general rule, when cooking rice, you use twice as much water as rice: for every cup of rice, two cups of water. With arroz malandro, the ratio increases to around three cups of water for every cup of rice. However, this rule is not fixed, as it varies depending on the type of rice and how much liquid it absorbs. That is why it is important to keep an eye on the rice as it cooks and add hot water whenever necessary if it starts to dry out.
Unlike risotto, arroz malandro does not need to be stirred constantly. It should be stirred occasionally and cooked over low heat. Just let it cook long enough for the rice to be perfectly tender, which usually takes between 20 and 30 minutes.
If you want to discover the main rice dishes in Portugal, take a look at this article:
If this is a topic you enjoy exploring, we recommend visiting the Rice Museum in Comporta or the Fábrica da História – Rice Museum in Estarreja.
Much of the information gathered for this article came from the book Portuguese Rice: A Gastronomic World by Fortunato da Câmara, from the CTT collection.
Want to learn more about culinary traditions in Portugal? See also:
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